Feast & Famine

real reason for feast on Christmas, ancestors feasting, what scrimping teaches, putting up own foods brings wisdom,

George Eastman House collection, ca

A basic principle used by wise householders the world over is “use the worst first, put the best by.” That’s entirely contrary to what’s preached at us by advertisers but it’s how most generations before us survived. They passed down traits like fortitude, patience, and the ability to go on no matter how bleak the prospects. The hardy genes they gave us are surely flummoxed by fast food and passive entertainment.

“Use the worst first, put the best by” these days doesn’t necessarily mean we save the best for seed stock or dig through a root cellar to make sure the rutabagas going bad are fed to the cows (although I happily save seeds and feed rutabagas to cows). It simply means the apples going soft are the ones selected to make pie, leaving crisp ones for another day. The blemished celery stalks, wizening carrots, and wrinkled peppers inspire a soup. And the cut of meat that’s nearly past the “use by” date is quickly turned into an entrée.

This frugal advice inspires me to try with enthusiasm that’s easy to maintain because I know the  grocery store is only 20 minutes away. Still, I check the pantry and refrigerator regularly, employing my subversive cooking powers to create meals from whatever needs to be used up. And living on a small farm I also do my best to put up what we harvest. Despite bushels of homegrown potatoes and hundreds of canning jars filled with tomatoes, jellies, applesauce, and juices it’s clear that I’d make a horrible pioneer. Blight and powdery mildew regularly hits my garden. Cows get sick Chickens are killed by predators. Cheese doesn’t turn out right and a dozen jars of pickles are inedible. My family would starve.

Complete self-reliance isn’t my goal. I’d rather cozy up on the couch with a stack of library books and beverage of choice than work hard, even if I do appreciate the genes bestowed on me (and you) by stalwart ancestors.  But the attempts I make are teaching me something about what feast and famine might have meant to people who really relied on food they put up themselves.

After a few months of storage my potatoes begin to shrink into softness and my garlic turns dark and hollow. My dried peppers become fragile as dust. My fermented cabbage and pickles start to taste strange. If I lived about 200 years ago I wouldn’t know about home canning and would have to rely entirely on techniques like salting, drying, lacto-fermentation, and root cellaring. These methods are no real assurance that food will last. Several hundred years ago I’d have to balance out my family’s hunger with the need to save enough to get through the winter. I’d have to check regularly to make sure the dried fish and fruits were free of infestation, the salted meat wasn’t getting slimy, the grains weren’t spreading mold, the root vegetables hadn’t frozen. At some point, probably around early to mid-winter, it would be clear to me and to every other householder making the same hard choices, that some of our food wouldn’t last no matter what we did. Everything degrades.

And so we’d make a decision based entirely on faith and goodwill. We’d entend, through our own hard won food, the kind of hope that is of the body itself, the kind of hope that has a close acquaintance with hunger and death but goes on anyway. If I were a woman of this time I would take from storage a bounty of foods not likely to last through the winter anyway. I would cook and bake and invite people to feast with my family. The table would be filled with plenty, even if it meant in a few month’s time I’d be feeding my children soups made with nothing more than salt and beans to tide them over and scrounging in desperation for the first greens to emerge as the snow melted. I can almost picture this woman heaping food on plates. Such a feast would be celebrated with faith that we talk about these days but don’t know in our bellies. It has to do with reverence that’s forever tied to holiday meals.

I’ll be thinking about this woman as I put dinner on the table tonight, relishing the welcome sight of my loved ones eating what I’ve worked to prepare just as she must have done. That’s what “put the best by” is teaching me.

 

About Laura Grace Weldon

Laura Grace Weldon is the author of "Free Range Learning," a handbook of natural learning and "Tending," a poetry collection. She lives on Bit of Earth Farm where she's a barely useful farm wench. Although she has deadlines to meet she often wanders from the computer to preach hope, snort with laughter, cook subversively, ponder life’s deeper meaning, talk to chickens and cows, sing to bees, hide in books, walk dogs, concoct tinctures, watch foreign films, and make messy art. Blog: lauragraceweldon.com/blog-2/ FB: facebook.com/FreeRangeLearningCommunity FB: facebook.com/SubversiveCooking FB: facebook.com/laura.euphoria Twitter: @earnestdrollery
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11 Responses to Feast & Famine

  1. risa says:

    Wonderful meditation on the implications of subsistence.

  2. Laura:

    Good observations about how far in circumstance, if not in time, we are from the days when we had to plan how to feed ourselves through the winter and spring. Even what little connection we recently had to the seasonal ebb and flow of food has vanished, as imports from places such as Chile, Israel and South Africa ensure that what used to be seasonal fresh produce — oranges, strawberries, cherries and sweet corn — remain available year-round in our grocery stores.

    • Laura Weldon says:

      I’m happy to drink my pricey Fair Trade coffee and drive to ethnic markets to find fresh exotic veggies, so I’m not protesting these luxuries. But I think something is lost when we don’t experience, in our hands and our bellies, what it means to fend for ourselves even a little bit.

  3. What a fantastic post – and what a great philosophy! I really liked this:
    ‘Complete self-reliance isn’t my goal. I’d rather cozy up on the couch with a stack of library books and beverage of choice than work hard, even if I do appreciate the genes bestowed on me (and you) by stalwart ancestors. But the attempts I make are teaching me something about what feast and famine might have meant to people who really relied on food they put up themselves.’
    Some people make fun of ‘hobby homesteaders’ if we don’t go the ‘whole way’, as if that is cheating or something. But isn’t the luxury of our life in the ‘developed world’ in this modern age that we can pick and choose what we do with our lives? And funnily enough, most of the people who are quick to pick holes in what you do are people who are doing absolutely NOTHING for the environment or community themselves. I am glad there are people like you out there.

    • Laura Weldon says:

      Generally I think those who stand in judgment aren’t aware that they’re speaking about their own shadows. It seems to be a common human tendency, that’s for sure. Even if folks are doing all they can, it doesn’t help to throw stones at others who act out of the best intentions. We’re all on our own paths. That’s what makes the journey so interesting.

  4. Michelle says:

    What a curious thing. I checked out this page from a friend’s Pin on Pinterest only to discover that I just brought your homeschooling book home from the library yesterday. Can’t wait to read it.

  5. Lacey (+4) says:

    totally think about this all the time. if we REALLY had to manage through a winter, we’d never make it! our blueberry stock ran out in October, the potatoes have all sprouted or shriveled, and it’s as though we never even planted onions they were gone so fast…and we’re in the south! but, all the attempting sure does help put things in perspective. sometimes a little ‘want’ goes a long way for a person’s character and it seems these days few in our culture want for much ever…

  6. Oh what a great post! (I found you via the lovely Tonia.) I, too, think about this ALL the time, particularly since we will soon be moving to an acreage and hope to be good stewards of the land (and what comes forth from it). I find in my reading, I am most drawn to the stories of early settlers or those who’ve lived through poverty. My list of favorites includes: Grapes of Wrath, A Lantern in Her Hand, The Glass Castle, A Tree Grows in Brooklyn, The Good Earth. I think I’ll read Giants in the Earth next. Isn’t that a great title? 🙂 Yes, our ancestors are giants in my eyes! I surely would have succumbed…

    • Laura Weldon says:

      You’ve given me two new books to request from the library. Until now I haven’t heard of Giants in the Earth or A Lantern in Her Hand. Thanks to you, I’ll be looking forward to reading them. Thank you!

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